Aloha Hawaii
 
   The spirit and energy of creation surrounds you everywhere on Hawaii’s Big Island. Polynesian legend claims the goddess Pele traveled across the Islands of Aloha until she reached Hawaii’s Big Island. It is here Pele makes her home. One island. Still warm from its fiery birth. Larger twice than its sisters combined and growing every day that its active volcano, Kilauea, sends new land to a steamy meeting with the ocean 4,000 feet below. Countless waterfalls feeding rain forests of botanical wonder add a fantasy flavor to the landscape. Massive black lava fields hint at the island’s relative youth. And multitudes of uncrowded beaches let you catch your breath under the watchful eye of a snow-capped mountain. It’s thrilling.

   THE best way to glimpse Hawaii’s Big Island is in small portions, each with its own character (and often distinct climate). Join us on a journey around its expanse.

   HILO is the island’s capital city with one stately foot rooted in its plantation past and the other firmly in the present. The rains in Hilo have the courtesy to wait mostly for evening and are responsible for the rich greenery that surrounds everything. Catch the Suisan Fish Auction early each morning down by the bay or the Farmer’s Market on Wednesdays and Saturdays for local color.

   THE Hamakua Coast starts north of Hilo and is characterized by vertical cliffs adorned with wispy waterfalls and broken by a series of lush, green valleys. At the end of the Hamakua Coast Highway is Waipio Valley, the largest and the only valley accessible by road, if not by car. Hike in. Its beauty is worth every step.

   FROM Waipio, drive inland to the cool, upcountry town of Waimea, home of the Parker Ranch, one of the largest cattle ranches in the country. As you might expect, there’s a cowboy feel to the town complete with a 4th of July Rodeo.

   APPROACH Mauna Kea from Waimea or Hilo via Saddle Road. At 13,796 feet, you’ll be on top of the world and probably very cold unless you brought warm clothing. Mauna Kea means “white mountain” for the snow that seasonally paints its summit, home to an array of powerful observatories.

   DOWN the hill from Waimea is the South Kohala Coast, the Big Island’s sumptuous playground. On this always sunny shore are numerous white sand beaches perfect for sunbathing, swimming and snorkeling. Lush green golf courses carved from black lava flows present a beautiful, unearthly contrast.

  DOWN the coast is the lively, harbor town of Kailua-Kona with its labyrinth of shops, restaurants, hotels and condominiums. Leave from here on deepsea fishing charters or stroll along the shore and watch the action. In October, Kailua-Kona fills up with world-class athletes here for the Ironman Triathlon World Championship.

   FROM Kailua-Kona south, you’re in coffee country where small plantations produce the world’s best coffee beans. Many growers host visitor centers and offer samples of the delicious brew. Stop in at the Kona Historical Society in Kealakekua to learn more about the region’s history. Kealalekua Bay was the site of Captain Cook’s death in 1779. Today the bay is a marine preserve and one of the best snorkeling sites in this part of the island. One of Hawaii’s most sacred sites is preserved at Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park where you can walk among the heiau that served as a place of refuge for Hawaiians.

   CONTINUING south to the Kau district is Ka Lae, or South Point. This is likely the spot where the voyaging Polynesians first landed in Hawaii about 1500 years ago, and it is certainly the southernmost point in the United States. Gaze out at the Pacific’s vastness from here and it is easy to imagine the feelings of the first Hawaiians who sighted these shores after months at sea in a canoe.

   BORDERING Kau at the Kilauea Volcano is the Puna district. The lava flow has claimed a town or two and covered some beaches, but life goes on for the orchid and flower growers in this chiefly green, forested part of Hawaii’s Big Island. In Puna you can soak in a volcano-heated thermal pool. Find them at Ahalanui Beach Park and Isaac Hale Beach Park located near the colorful town of Pahoa.